of the electronics began in late December of 2004. After
acquiring a schematic, the capacitors were confirmed as being
mostly original, and of the correct values. The first repairs consisted
of removing capacitors and replacing them with test leads with
both ends, all while taking many notes to minimize screw- ups in the
future. After removal, the replacement capacitors will be installed
inside of the originals to preserve the appearance of the chassis. Below Left: A photo of the chassis marking
tubes and cut wires used in identifying the model, Right: The chassis
shortly after restoration began.
caps were then heated in a metal pan, and
the capacitors were gutted and wiped clean.
After the paper shells were clean, new polyester film capacitors of the
same value were placed inside the hollow tubes, longer leads soldered
them, and they were sealed with hot glue. Some of the old
wax was then reheated,
and used to seal the ends to cover up the foggy white color of hot
Below Left: the restuffed capacitors
ready to install, Right: the
chassis after being recapped.
mid January 2005 the upper chassis rewire was pretty much finished.
The lower left photo shows the right half of the chassis has already
been rewired, and polished. I used steel wool, and a little bit or
rubbing alcohol and WD-40 to remove the spots of rust and thick greasy
the chassis. The lower right photo shows the chassis
rewire and cleaning complete, along with a test speaker connected to
it. I had some matching tube shields that were
rescued from a Silvertone console years ago to replace the missing
ones. Cloth covered wire, available from Radio Daze, was used to replace
the cut or missing wires. Below
Left: The chassis halfway cleaned and polished, Right: The completed
Before the radio could
be tested, a power supply had to be built that could provide the 3 VDC
the A+ and 135 VDC for the C+. Two 1.5 VDC "D" cell batteries were used
for the A+, and a homemade power supply for the B+. A simple
design was used for a B+ power supply, very similar to the one on Phil's old radios, with a few
modifications. The whole setup is powered off of a small isolation
transformer using two 25.2 volt, 2 amp
Stancor power transformers, and a fuse. This helps protect me and the
radio. Below Center: The homebrew
Upon first powering up the radio, it did just as
suspected, no sound, smoke, or any other signs of life. Troubleshooting
started off by testing voltages on the tube pins and using the chart on
the schematic as a guide. Everything looked good
until I reached the 1C6 tube, which is
used as a oscillator. Nothing on the plate, which is suppose to be 115
VDC. The missing voltage was traced back to a open coil, in the IF
transformer ( L6). An old IF transformer in my junk box
was used as a replacement. After installing this, the voltage
problem was fixed, but the receiver still made no sound. Something is
not right here.... All of a sudden my brain kicked into gear, the IF
frequency in this radio is 175 KC, and the replacement coil was 455 KC.
I had the wrong coil! After smacking myself in the head, and a little
bit of cursing, I proceeded to look for the correct replacement from a
parts vendor.A replacement coil, # 30 tube,
and the transformers for the power supply were purchased from Play Things of the Past.
After installing the correct coil, and aligning the
receiver, it was working on both bands. There were still some minor
problems, including bad connections on the band selector switch, and a
bad connection somewhere that knocked out the entire AM band if the
tuning condenser is moved at all.
cabinet had some obvious problems, mainly
the top is disconnected with the rest of the cabinet. This is because
all of the glue has dried up and the joints are all coming apart. The
finish is not original, as mentioned before, so I did a few
simple tests to see what it was. The usual tests for shellac and
lacquer had no effect. Looked like I had a case of polyurethane here. Below: The cabinet before restoration.
After a few weeks of re-gluing every piece of the
cabinet using wood glue, C-clamps, and other clamps, the cabinet was
ready to be stripped. I believe this radio was dipped long ago in some
sort of stripper, since the glue had all been
eaten away, and the veneer was cracked all over. A rather strong
gel stripper was used to remove the poly, not
letting it sit long enough to seep into the wood. The below photo shows
the cabinet after
stripping. The C-clamp is holding on some veneer that was falling apart
on the grill. The lighter spots on the side are Minwax stainable wood
filler used to fill in the cracks in the dried out veneer. Below center: The cabinet after being
stripped and repaired.
the Minwax wood filler had dried, it was sanded down with 400 grit
sandpaper. The cabinet was then wiped down with mineral spirits, and a
tack cloth was used to remove any dust. A few coats of Minwax brand
sealer were then applied. 24 hours after this dried, the cabinet was
sprayed with Van Dyke Brown colored Mohawk toner. Since this was my
first cabinet restore using this method, much care was used with the
application. Even with my best efforts, the cabinet still developed
some bad runs and other blemishes. The only option was to strip it with
thinner and start over.
My second try with the toner was much better. The
final coats of lacquer were Deft brand clear gloss. After this had
dried, the cabinet was lightly sanded with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper
achieve a very smooth finish. It was then buffed by hand with a
automotive wax to get a nice shine.
The original grill cloth and board that it was
mounted to were long gone. A replacement cloth was purchased from RadioDaze, and a new board was
from the thick cardboard in the cover of a old three ring binder. Below Center, The photo used in the
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"Jeremy's Antique Radios"